The journal

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Stories, guides and quiet obsessions from across Portugal — the places, tables and traditions worth crossing a continent for.

The 10 Best Things to Eat in Lisbon

The 10 Best Things to Eat in Lisbon

From the perfect pastel de nata to a tin of conservas eaten standing up, here's what to put in your mouth in Lisbon — and where to find it.

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A Beginner's Guide to Portuguese Azulejos

A Beginner's Guide to Portuguese Azulejos

The blue-and-white tiles you see everywhere in Portugal carry five centuries of history. Here's how to read them — and where to see the best.

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Surfing Nazaré: When the Giants Arrive

Surfing Nazaré: When the Giants Arrive

Home to the largest waves ever surfed, Nazaré is a fishing town turned big-wave amphitheatre. Here's the science, the season, and where to stand.

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An Evening of Fado in the Alfama

An Evening of Fado in the Alfama

Fado is the sound of Lisbon — longing, salt air and Portuguese guitar. Here's how to spend an authentic evening with it in the city's oldest quarter.

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The Most Beautiful Quintas in the Douro

The Most Beautiful Quintas in the Douro

The world's oldest demarcated wine region is a landscape of terraced hills and grand riverside estates. Here's how to taste your way through it.

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Seven Days on the Madeira Levadas

Seven Days on the Madeira Levadas

Madeira's centuries-old irrigation channels double as one of the world's great walking networks. Here's a week of trails through laurel forest and cloud.

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The Slow Beauty of the Alentejo Plains

The Slow Beauty of the Alentejo Plains

Cork oaks, whitewashed towns and a pace all its own. The Alentejo is Portugal's golden interior — and a lesson in slowing down.

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Island-Hopping the Nine Azores

Island-Hopping the Nine Azores

Volcanic craters, whale-filled seas and emerald lakes, scattered across the mid-Atlantic. A guide to choosing your islands in the Azores.

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Where to Stay in Porto in 2026

Where to Stay in Porto in 2026

From riverside Ribeira to the buzzing heart of Cedofeita, here's a neighbourhood-by-neighbourhood guide to finding your base in Porto.

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A Guide to the Schist Villages of Centro

A Guide to the Schist Villages of Centro

Tucked in the forested hills of central Portugal, the Aldeias do Xisto are stone villages from another century. Here's how to find them.

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Why a Sintra Day Trip from Lisbon Should Be on Your Itinerary

Pena Palace, mystical gardens, and the wild Atlantic coast — here's why Sintra is Portugal's must-see day trip.

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